Equipment Problems: Enerjet Boiler

2007 February 22
by Thurmus

What began as a minor inconvenience of having to re-light pilot lights and flush the heating system has TURNED into “well, how much could a new boiler be” scenario. The previous owner of the building said that the boilers were new, although the Enerjet, as a company looks to have all but disappeared. Finding support online seems to be impossible and Mr Rooter has already been out twice to try to repair the low water shutoff valve and light on one of the boilers.

Passively, I’ve started preparing for the worst — a new boiler installation.

From what I’ve been reading about government assistance and the energy ratings of newer brand name boilers, this might turn out to be a good thing. Not only would I be able to lower the gas bills, but NY State and the Federal Gov’t might also kick in a few hundred dollars.

More on this here:

http://www.energytaxincentives.org/tiap-home-heat-cool-equip.html

http://www.getenergysmart.org/

EnergyStar Partners in the US

6 Responses leave one →
  1. 2007 February 26
    Niffly Niffingtons permalink

    Thing is, as Gary pointed out…the boiler is only part of the system. There are about 5 other major components that we’d also need to get. Both he and Adrian confirmed it would’nt be worth it cost wise, since for the most part, these are fine.

    The gurgling in the pipes is more likely because of the low water quality comign from the city pipes – nothig could fix that.

    The low water light hasn’t come on since Gary came out, but I’m keeping an eye on it. What you *might* want to look into is the Mr Rooter preferred program thing…..if you got the pipes rerouted in the tub it might be a smart move. I don’t know how much that costs though?

  2. 2007 October 24
    dan lingerfelder permalink

    Hi do you know how to get the enerjet boiler started,, is there a manual available.

  3. 2008 January 25

    I AM LOOKING FOR A MANUAL ALSO FOR A ENERJET BOILER. I NEED TO KNOW HOW TO RELIGHT IT.

  4. 2008 January 28

    Hello Shawn – in this case it’s best to hire a qualified professional to come in, give the boiler a once over (to determine why it went out) and then relight it — ideally they will show you what they did to relight the boiler.

  5. 2008 May 16
    michael d permalink

    I have an ENERJET 150,000 BTU hot water nat gas boiler. I has a leak and i am told it must be replace. This unit is only 5 years old and i cannot find any company rep to question warranty. Can you help?

  6. 2008 November 25
    Dewayne permalink

    Subject: Enerjet Coporation and Model …

    Model Number: ET-32

    Description: Hot water/Steam Boiler Category 1

    A.G.A Input 75000 BTU/HR
    D.O.E. Heating Capacity 61000 BTU/HR

    Serial Number: 45091

    Greetings All…

    I have an Enerjet ET-32 Natural Gas Boiler/Heater Unit.

    On November 23rd 2008 PM I had an issue where
    my wife reported that there was no heat after adjusting
    the thermostat from 68 degrees to 70 degrees (1/2
    hour ago) and notice that there was no heat in the
    house.

    So I as the super hero to save the day went to the
    boiler to diagnose the situation. What I did was
    immediately without monitoring the PSI gauge
    making sure it didn’t exceed the threshold of 30 degrees (max. working PSI) I flipped up the check
    vavle lever which is rated 12 – 15 psi to allow water
    into the system thinking the water was low in the
    boiler/heater system.

    As a consequence the pressure release valve once
    the water I was filling into the system crossed the threshold (30psi) kicked in and spewed water all over
    the basement floor.

    Well, while water gushed onto the floor the heater turned on at the same time and seemed to be running
    as normal, however with the heater running (flames lit on burners) and water gushing out of the pressure release vavle I thought it would be best to shut off the
    heater/boiler and troubleshoot the problem using the
    one page documentation that I have.

    Since there is no manual and/or troubleshooting
    information I began to embark on troubleshooting the
    issue myself.

    I then started to purge water from a relase cut-off valve
    located on the heater unit (lower left side corner) when
    I tried to turn off the water flow I still had water dripping
    out of the cut-off valve located on the boiler/heater.

    After an hour of trying to resolve the dripping at this
    point with a leaky cut-off vavle I decided to call a
    local well known Plumbing/Heating company to
    come out and assist so I placed an emergency
    house call.

    The next day November 25, 2008 AM when the tech arrived to check on my Enerjet Boiler/Heater Model:
    ET-32 I explained exactly what happened.

    The HVAC Technician informed me that I would be
    looking at first a $357 fee to replace the broken
    cut-off valve that was leaking and had a broken cut-off
    nob.

    Also a $99 service fee just for coming out to check my
    unit.

    I replied by saying that I can replace the cut-off valve
    myself and feel confident with replacing it and that
    $357 is an awful lot of money just to replace a cut-off
    valve. I asked what else needed to be done and so
    he informed me that I may have a cracked heat
    exchange and this would mean a new boiler/heater.

    The HVAC Technician replied saying that I would need
    to first replace the broken valve to resolve the leaking
    broken valve and then fill the system watching and
    making sure that the boiler/heater system fills up with
    a presure equal to but no greater than 15 psi. per
    automatic inline cut-off check valve.

    Then bleed the system one zone at a given time of air
    in the line (I emptied all the water the night prior trying
    to resolve the leaky cut-off purge valve) this is why the
    system needed bleeding.

    The tech showed me how to bleed the system each
    zone at a time (can’t do both at the same time). There
    is a lever attached on each zone automatic cut-off valve
    that needs to be lifted up then you turn on all water
    supply cut-off valves to run water through the system.

    To increase the water pressure going through the
    system you need to lift up the lever on the check valve
    to speed up this process while monitoring the psi of
    the overall system.

    After purging the system of air return the lever of the
    check valve back to it’s normal (off) position remember
    each zone when purging of air can only be done one at
    a time.

    Next turn off the purge cut-off valve located on the
    boiler/heater unit lower left corner. Remove the
    garden hose.

    Next make sure all water supply cut-off valves are on
    and fully open.

    Next follow the operating directions of the boiler/heater
    unit. Basically this involves first turning on the gas
    via. the controll knob (push and turn) then turn on the
    power via. the power switch.

    My unit is equipped with a self ignite intermittent pilot
    system so I don’t have to light the pilot.

    The last thing is to set the tempture via. thermostat per
    zone.

    After I followed the steps above I confirmed that there
    were no leaks both (Natural Gas aswell as water), also
    there was no issue with the heat exchange which the tech thought that it might have gotten cracked when
    during the time the water was released from the
    pressue release valve.

    So we now have heat as the heater unit is operating
    with no problems, and I saved $300 – $1000 I was
    lucky and greatful that the HVAC tech provided me with
    the instructions to remedy the issue.

    I know that I will need to save up to replace at some
    point in time the boiler/heater but for now I’m good.

    Does anyone know if there is a website which
    educates consumers about the good, better, best
    understandings of heaters i.e. gas vs. oil?

    Also is it confirmed that Enerjet Corporation is no
    longer in existence and gone for good?

    Please advise, thanks…

    Hope that my story provided above will help someone.

    I’m out peace Dewayne ….

    To bleed the system of air per the HVAC tech I needed
    to connect a regular garden hose to the cut-off valve
    that was replaced and located on the boiler/heater unit
    lower left corner.

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